Syd Stelvio, Pearl of India - Day 11 – Khajuraho to Bandhavgarh – 314km
Up in the hills, and far from the madding crowd the Tigers live. In the forests of the Panna National Park there are around 90 of them, sharing their habitat with the various other animals that call the area home, including humans. Today, we drove through their living room, climbing into the hills and mountains here, and though the Tigers aren’t as brazen as the Macaques that also share the countryside, rest assured they are there, the Kings of the Jungle.
Today would be about who was King of the Hill, with plenty of climbing to be done, a rare treat on this rally that has largely existed on India’s flat plains. The first regularity of two was around 70km from base, but the drive was on extremely pleasant roads. The morning mele that we have become accustomed to was left behind and we were treated to almost empty roads. It was a strange feeling to not be overtaking a motorcycle every 20 feet, or avoiding a heat-seeking Rickshaw locked on to one’s engine. There were still people around, and the first competitive section ran through a few settlements, home to the people that farm the land around here, growing crops of mustard and wheat. Most people did well, but best across the distance were cars 16 and 19, Alain Lejeune and Herve Collette and Patrick and Pam Watts, both of whom are locked in a squabble over 7th and 8th place overall.
The next regularity was 50km or so away and would begin almost at the summit of a steep climb. I’m sure Mike Dreelan and Bob Pybus were praying that the incline of the ascent was going to reduce by the time the competitive section started, having lost third gear as they have. Most of the elevation had been realised as the reg commenced, but the start was still on a reasonable climb, offering the opportunity to spin the wheels and confuse the trip. Finally with some altitude gained, there were some uninterrupted views to be enjoyed of the surrounding countryside, that through irrigation was a fabulous green.
This didn’t last for long, as the road plunged into the trees, with dappled light on the asphalt from a sun that had been a little obscured by cloud during the morning. This was another excellent road, with a lovely surface and minimal traffic, with nobody taking it for granted after the last week or so. There were excellent scores across the board again, but three cars would manage to complete the section with just one second dropped across the two timing points, these being Martin and Olivia Hunt in the number 2 Bentley, Tommy Dreelan and George Barrack in the beautiful green Fangio and the Watts again, showing the old touring car driver can still hit a delta when needed – even if the pace is a bit slower in this sport!
A wonderful drive followed the final regularity, across tremendous countryside interspersed with villages and small towns. The scenery was beautiful, and the population density was still low. There was a mixture of smooth roads and rough roads, with the opportunity to enjoy a bit of gravel driving as well, and there were probably more bends than there had been in the entire first half of the rally – it was truly a day for the drivers to enjoy.
There was a short run back through civilisation towards the end of the day, with a run through a couple of incredibly busy and incredibly narrow towns, but after the opportunity to let loose in the countryside, the tumult of urban driving felt fresh again, and the noise, colours and smells added a little lift as the miles ticked by.
Tonight, we are in Safari lodges, with the opportunity to seek out Tigers in the morning before a midday departure. Perhaps a lucky few will see them, but even if they don’t, the drive through Tiger country today has been a tremendous experience, and perhaps the most enjoyable day of the rally so far. The Watts certainly enjoyed it, and of course were best on the day, adding just three seconds to their debt with the timekeeper. Elsewhere, there has been a change of the overall lead, with the Hunts leaping into first by four seconds, after besting Jim Grayson and Simon Spinks by 7 seconds on the day, with the Escort running into clutch trouble again.
The 48-hour car reports an even better day on the road tomorrow, so we will see, but the drive today has made me fall in love with India all over again.
Syd
